How To Get Potatoes To Grow Eyes – Successful Harvest
To get potatoes to grow eyes, place your seed potatoes in a cool, bright area (around 50-60°F) with plenty of indirect sunlight for 4 to 6 weeks. This process, known as “chitting,” breaks the tuber’s dormancy and encourages the growth of sturdy, green sprouts.
Avoid dark cupboards, as these produce long, brittle white sprouts that break easily. Instead, use egg cartons to hold the potatoes with the “rose end” (the end with the most dimples) facing upward toward the light.
Every gardener knows the anticipation of the first spring planting. You want your garden to thrive, and starting with vigorous, healthy sprouts is the most effective way to ensure a heavy harvest. Learning how to get potatoes to grow eyes is the first step toward a productive season and a pantry full of homegrown tubers.
In this guide, I will share the professional techniques I use at Garden Aider to jumpstart the potato growing season. We will cover everything from breaking dormancy to the environmental triggers that signal a potato to wake up. You will learn how to avoid common mistakes that lead to rot or weak plants.
By the end of this article, you will have a clear, actionable plan to prepare your seed potatoes for the soil. We will discuss the science of chitting, the tools you need, and the safety precautions to keep your family and your garden healthy. Let’s get your potatoes ready for the best growing season yet.
Understanding Potato Dormancy and the Chitting Process
Potatoes are naturally programmed to stay dormant for several months after they are harvested. This biological “sleep” protects the plant from sprouting during the harsh winter months when the ground is frozen. To get a head start on the season, we must manually break this dormancy.
Chitting is the technical term for pre-sprouting potatoes before they hit the dirt. While it is not strictly mandatory for all varieties, it provides a significant advantage for early-season cultivars. It allows the plant to establish roots faster once the soil warms up.
When you chit a potato, you are encouraging the “eyes”—which are actually axillary buds—to begin growing. A well-chitted potato produces short, thick, green or purple sprouts. These sprouts are much hardier than the long, spindly white ones you might find on a forgotten potato in the back of your pantry.
By mastering the timing of this process, you can harvest your crop up to three weeks earlier. This is especially beneficial in regions with shorter growing seasons or for gardeners who want to squeeze in a second crop later in the summer. It also helps the plant resist soil-borne diseases by spending less time in the vulnerable “sprout-to-surface” phase.
How to Get Potatoes to Grow Eyes: The Step-by-Step Chitting Method
The most effective way regarding how to get potatoes to grow eyes involves controlling light and temperature. You want to mimic the transition from winter to spring. This transition signals to the tuber that it is time to allocate energy toward new growth.
Start by identifying the “rose end” and the “stolon end” of your potato. The rose end is the side with the highest concentration of small pits or dimples. These dimples are the eyes where the sprouts will emerge. The stolon end is where the potato was originally attached to the parent plant.
Place your seed potatoes in an upright position with the rose end facing upward. Empty egg cartons or wooden fruit crates work perfectly for this task. The containers keep the potatoes organized and prevent them from rolling around, which could damage the emerging buds.
Move the containers to a location that is cool but frost-free. A temperature range of 50°F to 60°F (10°C to 15°C) is ideal for healthy development. A porch, a cool windowsill, or a well-lit garage usually provides the perfect environment for this stage.
Ensure the potatoes receive plenty of indirect sunlight. Direct, scorching sun can overheat the tubers and cause them to shrivel or rot. The light is the most critical factor; it keeps the sprouts short and strong. In the dark, the potato will grow “etiolated” sprouts, which are weak and prone to snapping during planting.
The Role of Humidity and Airflow
While light and temperature are the primary drivers, humidity plays a supporting role. If the air is too dry, the potato may lose too much moisture and become “rubbery.” This dehydration can stunt the vigor of the eyes.
Maintain a moderate humidity level in your chitting area. If you live in an extremely arid climate, you can lightly mist the potatoes once a week. However, be careful not to overdo it, as standing water on the skin can encourage fungal pathogens.
Airflow is equally important for preventing rot. Do not stack the potatoes on top of each other. Give each tuber enough space so that air can circulate freely around the entire surface. This prevents the buildup of carbon dioxide and moisture that leads to soft spots.
Selecting the Best Seed Potatoes for Sprouting
Before you even begin the chitting process, you must start with high-quality material. Many beginners try to sprout potatoes they bought from the local grocery store. While this can work, it often leads to frustration and poor results.
Grocery store potatoes are often treated with a growth inhibitor called Chlorpropham (Bud Nip). This chemical is designed specifically to prevent the eyes from sprouting while the potatoes sit on the shelf. These potatoes may take months to wake up, or they may never grow healthy eyes at all.
Instead, always purchase “Certified Seed Potatoes” from a reputable nursery or garden center. These tubers are guaranteed to be disease-free and are not treated with inhibitors. They are specifically grown to be replanted and will respond much more predictably to your chitting efforts.
Look for varieties that suit your specific needs. ‘Yukon Gold’ is a favorite for its buttery flavor and reliable sprouting. ‘Red Pontiac’ is excellent for heavy soils, while ‘Russet Burbank’ is the gold standard for baking. Check your local hardiness zone to see which cultivars thrive in your area.
When selecting individual tubers, choose ones that are roughly the size of a large chicken egg. These have enough stored energy to support the sprouts but are not so large that they are difficult to manage. Avoid any potatoes with visible soft spots, mold, or deep cracks, as these are signs of decay.
Creating the Ideal Environment for Sprouting
Consistency is the secret to getting the best results. Once you have set up your chitting station, try not to move it frequently. Fluctuating temperatures can confuse the plant and lead to “internal sprouting,” where the eyes grow back into the tuber rather than outward.
If you are chitting in a room that gets very cold at night, cover the potatoes with a thin fleece or newspaper. This provides just enough insulation to prevent frost damage without blocking out all the light. Remember, if the temperature drops below freezing, the water inside the potato cells will expand and kill the tuber.
You should see the first signs of activity within two weeks. Small, green “pips” will emerge from the eyes. Over the next month, these will develop into sturdy shoots about an inch long. If the sprouts are reaching toward the light, rotate the egg carton every few days to ensure even growth.
A common question is whether you should rub off any of the sprouts. If a potato has ten or more eyes growing, the plant will produce many small potatoes. If you prefer fewer but much larger potatoes, you can rub off all but the strongest three or four sprouts using your thumb.
Cutting and Curing Sprouted Potatoes
Once your potatoes have healthy sprouts, you might find that some tubers are quite large. To maximize your harvest, you can cut these larger potatoes into smaller pieces. This practice is common among professional landscapers and farmers to save on seed costs.
Each piece must have at least two healthy eyes. Use a clean, sharp knife to make the cuts. Sanitize your blade with rubbing alcohol between potatoes to prevent the spread of diseases like potato scab or late blight. This is a critical safety step for the health of your garden soil.
After cutting, do not plant them immediately. The “wet” side of the potato is highly susceptible to soil bacteria and rot. You must allow the cut surface to “cure” or “suberize.” This means letting it sit in a cool, dry place for 2 to 3 days until a thick, leathery skin forms over the wound.
Curing is a vital part of the process for anyone learning how to get potatoes to grow eyes and transition them to the field. Without this protective layer, the moisture in the potato will attract pests and pathogens the moment it touches the damp earth. A well-cured piece is much more likely to survive a cold, wet spring.
Planting Your Sprouted Potatoes Safely
When the soil temperature reaches at least 45°F (7°C), it is time to plant. Handling sprouted potatoes requires a gentle touch. Those eyes you worked so hard to grow are brittle. If you snap them off during planting, the potato will have to start the process all over again, wasting valuable energy.
Dig a trench about 6 inches deep. Place the potatoes or cut pieces into the trench with the sprouts facing upward. Space them about 12 inches apart to allow for proper root expansion and airflow. Crowding your plants can lead to smaller yields and an increased risk of foliage diseases.
Cover the tubers with about 3 or 4 inches of soil. Do not fill the trench all the way to the top initially. As the green stems emerge from the soil, you will perform a technique called “hilling.” This involves pulling more soil up around the base of the plant to protect the developing tubers from sunlight.
Sunlight exposure on the growing tubers causes them to turn green and produce solanine. Solanine is a toxic alkaloid that can cause illness if ingested. Safety-first gardening means always keeping your developing potatoes well-buried under soil or mulch. This is why mastering how to get potatoes to grow eyes is just the beginning; protecting the fruit of your labor is equally important.
Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting
Even with the best intentions, things can go wrong. If your potatoes are not sprouting after three weeks, check the temperature. If it is too cold (below 45°F), the potato will remain in a state of semi-dormancy. Move them to a slightly warmer room to kickstart the metabolism.
If the sprouts are long, white, and thin, they are not getting enough light. This is the most common mistake for DIY gardeners. Move them closer to a window or add a full-spectrum LED grow light. If the sprouts are already several inches long and floppy, it is best to rub them off and let the potato try again in a brighter spot.
Watch out for “soft rot.” If a potato feels mushy or gives off a foul odor, remove it from the group immediately. Rot can spread quickly through contact. This usually happens if the potatoes were stored in a plastic bag or a container with no ventilation. Always use breathable containers like cardboard or wood.
Pests can also be an issue during the chitting phase. Aphids are sometimes attracted to the tender new sprouts. If you see tiny green or black insects, wipe them off with a damp cloth or use a mild insecticidal soap. Keeping your chitting area clean and free of dead plant matter will help prevent these visitors.
Managing “Apical Dominance”
Sometimes, one single sprout at the very tip of the potato will grow rapidly while the other eyes stay dormant. This is called apical dominance. The lead sprout sends out hormones that tell the other eyes to stay asleep.
If you want a more even distribution of sprouts, you can carefully remove that one dominant “lead” sprout. This forces the potato to wake up the other eyes along its body. This technique results in a bushier plant with more stems, which can lead to a more uniform harvest of medium-sized potatoes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Use Potatoes From the Supermarket?
You can, but it is not recommended. Many are treated with sprout inhibitors. Furthermore, supermarket potatoes are not screened for diseases like Verticillium wilt, which can stay in your garden soil for years and ruin future crops.
What If the Sprouts Break Off During Planting?
Don’t panic. If a sprout breaks, the potato will usually grow a new one from the same eye or a neighboring one. However, this will delay your harvest by a week or two as the plant recovers its energy.
How Long Does the Chitting Process Take?
Generally, it takes 4 to 6 weeks to get robust, 1-inch sprouts. You should start the process about 6 weeks before your last expected frost date. This ensures the potatoes are ready the moment the soil is workable.
Do I Need to Water the Potatoes While They Are Chitting?
No, you should not water them. The tuber contains all the moisture and nutrients the sprouts need to begin growing. Adding water to the containers will likely lead to mold or fungal growth rather than helping the eyes grow.
Should I Chit “Maincrop” Potatoes?
While chitting is most beneficial for “early” varieties, maincrop potatoes can also benefit. It ensures they get a strong start, which helps them outcompete weeds and resist late-season pests like the Colorado Potato Beetle.
Conclusion
Success in the garden starts long before you pick up a shovel. Knowing how to get potatoes to grow eyes gives you a significant advantage, ensuring your plants are strong, healthy, and ready to produce a bountiful harvest. By controlling light, temperature, and airflow, you turn a simple tuber into a powerhouse of growth.
Remember to prioritize safety by using certified seed potatoes and keeping your developing crop covered with soil to avoid solanine buildup. Whether you are a weekend hobbyist or a budding landscaper, these professional chitting techniques will transform your potato-growing experience. Now, find a cool, bright spot in your home and get those eyes growing!
Happy gardening from the team at Garden Aider. With a little patience and the right environment, you’ll be enjoying the taste of fresh, buttery homegrown potatoes before you know it.
Taylor pairs an engineer's eye with years of hands-on work in soil, lawns and outdoor machinery. He tests ideas in his own garden, keeps tractors and mowers running himself, and speaks to local horticulture groups. Every Garden Aider guide is written to be practical, accurate and safe to follow.
“To bring life alive, you just need to mix some love with the compost, bedding, and gardening machines.”