How To Get Rid Of Mint Plants – Reclaiming Your Garden From Invasive
To effectively eliminate mint, you must remove the entire root system, including the underground rhizomes. For small patches, manual digging with a garden fork is best; for larger infestations, use a combination of solarization (smothering with plastic) and targeted herbicides like glyphosate or triclopyr.
Success requires persistence, as even a small root fragment left in the soil can regrow into a new plant within weeks.
Most gardeners start with a single, innocent pot of peppermint or spearmint. You likely enjoyed the fresh scent and the convenience of homegrown tea leaves for a season or two.
However, you probably noticed that mint doesn’t stay where you put it. It quickly leaps from its container or spreads across the flower bed, choking out your prize-winning perennials and turfgrass.
If you are currently facing a mint takeover, do not panic. I will show you exactly how to get rid of mint plants using proven landscaping techniques that prioritize your soil health and your sanity.
The Biological Reason Mint Is So Hard to Kill
Before we grab our shovels, we need to understand what we are fighting. Mint belongs to the Lamiaceae family, characterized by square stems and an aggressive growth habit.
The plant spreads through rhizomes, which are horizontal underground stems. These runners send out roots and new shoots at every node, creating a dense, interconnected mat beneath the surface.
If you simply pull the top of the plant, the rhizome remains intact. This triggers a survival response, causing the plant to send up even more shoots than before.
Mint also produces stolons, which are above-ground runners. These creep across your mulch or lawn, rooting wherever they touch the damp earth, effectively colonizing your yard in all directions.
Manual Extraction: The “Sift and Destroy” Method
For most homeowners, the most effective way how to get rid of mint plants is through physical removal. This method is labor-intensive but avoids the use of harsh chemicals near your vegetables.
Start by watering the area thoroughly a day before you plan to dig. Moist soil is much easier to work with and allows the roots to slide out without snapping as easily.
Use a garden fork rather than a spade or shovel. Shovels tend to slice through the rhizomes, and every tiny piece left behind can sprout a brand-new plant.
Step-by-Step Manual Removal
- Insert the garden fork about six inches away from the outer edge of the mint patch.
- Lever the soil upward to loosen the entire root ball.
- Gently pull the plant by the base, following the horizontal runners as they come out of the ground.
- Sift through the loosened soil with your hands or a hand rake to find white, fleshy root fragments.
- Place all plant material directly into a heavy-duty trash bag; never put mint in your compost pile.
Check the area every week for at least two months. As soon as you see a green leaf poking through, dig it up immediately before it can re-establish its energy reserves.
Smothering and Solarization Techniques
If the infestation covers a large area where you don’t plan to plant anything soon, smothering is a fantastic “set it and forget it” strategy. This deprives the plant of photosynthesis.
You can use heavy-duty black plastic sheeting or layers of overlapping cardboard. The goal is to block all sunlight and trap heat, which eventually exhausts the root system.
If you use cardboard, lay it down in thick layers and cover it with four inches of wood chip mulch. This looks better in a landscape but takes longer to work than plastic.
The Solarization Process
Solarization is a more intense version of smothering used during the hottest months of summer. It literally cooks the rhizomes and any weed seeds in the top few inches of soil.
Mow the mint as short as possible and soak the ground with water. Cover the area with clear plastic (not black) and seal the edges with bricks or soil to trap the steam.
Leave the plastic in place for six to eight weeks. The internal temperatures will rise high enough to kill most invasive perennials, including the most stubborn mint varieties.
This method is highly effective but will also kill beneficial soil microbes. You will need to amend the soil with organic compost once the process is complete to restore life to the earth.
How to Get Rid of Mint Plants Using Herbicides
Sometimes, manual labor isn’t enough, especially if the mint has grown into the base of a hedge or under a deck. In these cases, a targeted chemical approach might be necessary.
When searching for how to get rid of mint plants, you will find two main types of herbicides: selective and non-selective. Understanding the difference is crucial for protecting your other plants.
Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that kills almost anything it touches. It is systemic, meaning the plant absorbs it through the leaves and moves it down into the roots.
Safe Application Practices
Always wear nitrile gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection when handling garden chemicals. Read the manufacturer’s label twice before mixing or applying the product.
Apply the herbicide on a calm day with no wind to prevent “drift.” Drift occurs when the spray travels to your desirable flowers or shrubs, causing unintended damage.
If the mint is growing closely around other plants, use a disposable paintbrush. Dip the brush in the herbicide and “paint” the mint leaves directly to ensure zero contact with your prize roses.
For the best results, apply the treatment when the mint is actively growing but before it flowers. This ensures the plant is moving nutrients (and the poison) down to the root system.
Natural and Organic Alternatives
Many DIY gardeners prefer to avoid synthetic chemicals. While organic methods require more frequent applications, they can be quite effective for managing small outbreaks.
Horticultural vinegar (20% acetic acid) is a popular choice. Unlike household vinegar, which is only 5%, horticultural vinegar is strong enough to burn the foliage and weaken the plant.
Boiling water is another “old school” trick. Pouring a kettle of boiling water directly onto the crown of the mint plant can cook the upper roots and kill the foliage instantly.
However, boiling water rarely reaches the deep rhizomes. You will likely need to repeat this process several times as the plant attempts to regrow from its deeper energy stores.
The Salt Warning
You may see suggestions online to use salt to kill weeds. Never use salt in your garden beds. Salt ruins the soil structure and creates a “dead zone” where nothing will grow for years.
Stick to vinegar or boiling water, which break down or cool quickly, leaving the soil safe for future planting once the mint is gone.
Preventing a Re-Infestation
Once you have successfully cleared the area, your job isn’t quite finished. Mint is persistent, and any neighbors with mint in their yards could inadvertently share their plants with you again.
Install a root barrier if you want to keep mint in a specific area or keep a neighbor’s mint out. These are heavy plastic strips buried 12 to 18 inches deep in the soil.
The barrier prevents horizontal runners from crossing into “clean” territory. Ensure the barrier also sits two inches above the soil line to catch any stolons trying to creep over the top.
The safest way to grow mint is in containers. Even then, place the pot on a hard surface like a patio or a brick. If you put a potted mint plant on bare soil, the roots will grow through the drainage holes and escape.
Tools You Will Need
Having the right gear makes the process of how to get rid of mint plants much more manageable. Here is a quick checklist for your next trip to the garden center:
- Garden Fork: Better than a shovel for lifting intact root systems.
- Hori-Hori Knife: Excellent for precision digging in tight spaces or between rocks.
- Heavy-Duty Trash Bags: For immediate disposal of all plant fragments.
- Kneeling Pad: You will be spending a lot of time on the ground; save your joints.
- Hand Rake: Useful for sifting through the topsoil for hidden rhizomes.
Investing in a high-quality stainless steel garden fork is worth the cost. It won’t bend when you are prying up thick, established mint mats from heavy clay soil.
Managing Mint in Your Lawn
When mint invades a lawn, it creates a unique challenge. You can’t easily dig it up without destroying your turf, and solarization will kill your grass along with the mint.
In this scenario, a selective broadleaf herbicide containing triclopyr is often the best choice. Triclopyr targets broadleaf “weeds” like mint but leaves most species of turfgrass unharmed.
Always check the label to ensure the product is safe for your specific grass type (e.g., Bermuda, Kentucky Bluegrass, or St. Augustine). Apply it during the spring or fall when temperatures are moderate.
Regular mowing also helps. While it won’t kill the mint, it prevents the plant from flowering and spreading via seeds, and it forces the plant to use up its energy reserves constantly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I Put Pulled Mint in My Compost Bin?
No. Most home compost piles do not get hot enough to kill mint rhizomes. If you put mint in your compost, you will likely end up spreading mint starts all over your garden when you use the finished compost next year.
How Long Does It Take to Completely Kill a Mint Patch?
Expect the process to take a full growing season. Even with chemical treatments or thorough digging, dormant buds in the soil can sprout months later. Consistency is the key to total eradication.
Does Vinegar Kill Mint Roots?
Vinegar is a contact herbicide. It kills the green leaves it touches but rarely travels deep into the root system. You must apply it repeatedly to “starve” the roots over time as they try to send up new leaves.
What Is the Most Aggressive Type of Mint?
Peppermint and Spearmint are notoriously aggressive. However, Chocolate Mint and Orange Mint can be just as invasive if given plenty of water and nitrogen-rich soil.
Final Thoughts on Landscape Recovery
Learning how to get rid of mint plants is a rite of passage for many gardeners. It teaches us the importance of understanding plant biology and the value of containment.
Be patient with yourself and the process. It took the mint time to establish its network, and it will take a little time to dismantle it. Stay vigilant, keep your garden fork sharp, and soon your garden beds will be ready for new, less-invasive life.
Once you have reclaimed your soil, remember the golden rule of herb gardening: if it’s in the mint family, it belongs in a pot! Your future self—and your neighbors—will thank you for the foresight.
Taylor pairs an engineer's eye with years of hands-on work in soil, lawns and outdoor machinery. He tests ideas in his own garden, keeps tractors and mowers running himself, and speaks to local horticulture groups. Every Garden Aider guide is written to be practical, accurate and safe to follow.
“To bring life alive, you just need to mix some love with the compost, bedding, and gardening machines.”