How To Plant Bing Cherry Pits – Grow Your Own Sweet Fruit Tree

To successfully grow a Bing cherry tree from a pit, you must first clean the seeds and subject them to cold stratification in a refrigerator for 10 to 12 weeks to break dormancy. Once the pits sprout, plant them in a well-draining, loamy potting mix and provide plenty of sunlight.

Keep in mind that cherry trees grown from seed may not produce fruit identical to the parent “Bing” variety and often take 7 to 10 years to reach maturity. For the best results, start multiple seeds to account for varying germination rates.

There is a unique sense of satisfaction that comes from finishing a bowl of sweet, dark fruit and realizing you hold the potential for a whole orchard in your hand. If you have ever wondered how to plant bing cherry pits to start your own backyard harvest, you are embarking on a rewarding, albeit long-term, horticultural journey.

While many people assume you can simply toss a pit into the garden and wait for a sprout, the process is actually a bit more complex. Cherry seeds have built-in biological clocks that require specific environmental triggers before they will ever consider waking up.

In this guide, I will walk you through the professional techniques used to break seed dormancy and nurture a fragile seedling into a robust tree. Whether you want to plant fruit trees in your backyard for food security or just for the joy of gardening, these steps will set you up for success.

Understanding the Bing Cherry (Prunus Avium ‘Bing’)

The Bing cherry, known scientifically as Prunus avium ‘Bing’, is perhaps the most famous sweet cherry variety in the world. It is beloved for its deep mahogany skin, firm texture, and intense sweetness. However, there is a catch you must understand before you begin.

Bing cherries are not “true to seed.” This means the tree that grows from your pit will be a genetic hybrid of the Bing tree and whatever variety pollinated it. While the resulting fruit will likely be delicious, it may not be an exact replica of the Bing cherry you ate.

Furthermore, most commercial cherry trees are grafted onto specific rootstocks to control size and disease resistance. Your seed-grown tree will grow on its own “own-root” system, which often results in a much larger, standard-sized tree. Plan your space accordingly, as these giants can reach 30 feet or more.

Preparing Your Seeds: Cleaning and Drying

The first step in learning how to plant bing cherry pits is proper preparation. You cannot simply plant a pit that still has fruit clinging to it. The sugars in the leftover pulp will attract fungi and bacteria, causing the seed to rot before it can germinate.

Start by collecting pits from locally grown, ripe Bing cherries. Avoid pits from cherries that were frozen or cooked, as high heat or extreme cold can kill the embryo inside. Soak the pits in a bowl of warm water for a few hours to loosen any remaining flesh.

After soaking, use a soft-bristled brush or a rough cloth to scrub each pit until it is perfectly clean. You should be looking at the hard, woody shell known as the endocarp. Once cleaned, spread the pits out on a paper towel and let them dry at room temperature for three to four days.

The Secret to Germination: Cold Stratification

In the wild, a cherry pit falls to the ground in summer, sits through the cold winter, and sprouts in the spring. To get a pit to grow in your home, you must mimic this winter period. This process is called cold stratification.

Without this cold period, the seed dormancy will not break. The internal chemistry of the seed needs to register about 1,000 hours of temperatures between 33°F and 45°F. This tells the embryo that winter has passed and it is safe to emerge.

To stratify your seeds, place the dried pits into a glass jar or a plastic bag filled with a moist, well-draining substrate. A mix of peat moss and perlite or damp sand works best. Ensure the medium is moist like a wrung-out sponge, but not dripping wet.

Place the container in the back of your refrigerator. Check it every two weeks to ensure there is no mold and that the medium remains slightly damp. After 10 to 12 weeks, you may begin to see small white roots emerging from the pits. This is your signal that they are ready for soil.

How to Plant Bing Cherry Pits in Soil

Once your seeds have successfully sprouted in the fridge, it is time for the most delicate part of the process. You must transition the germinated seeds into a growing medium that supports their rapid early growth. Follow these steps carefully to ensure your germination efforts aren’t wasted.

Choosing the Right Potting Mix

Do not use standard garden soil for your new seedlings. Garden soil is often too heavy and may contain pathogens that can kill young plants. Instead, use a high-quality, loamy soil mix designed for seed starting.

A good mix should contain peat moss for moisture retention and perlite or vermiculite for aeration. This ensures that the tiny roots can breathe and expand without resistance. Fill small, 4-inch pots with this mix, leaving about an inch of space at the top.

Planting the Sprouted Pits

Gently poke a hole about one inch deep into the center of each pot. Place the sprouted pit into the hole with the root pointing downward. If the pit has not yet sprouted but has finished its stratification period, plant it at the same depth.

Cover the seed lightly with soil and pat it down very gently. Water the pot until moisture drains out of the bottom. Place the pots in a warm, bright location, such as a south-facing windowsill or under a dedicated LED grow light.

Maintaining Humidity and Temperature

Young cherry seedlings are sensitive to dry air. You can create a mini-greenhouse by placing a clear plastic dome or a plastic bag over the pot. This keeps the humidity high, which helps the seedling emerge from its shell.

Keep the temperature around 70°F (21°C). Once you see the first green leaves appearing, remove the plastic cover immediately to allow for air circulation. This prevents a common fungal disease known as “damping off,” which can cause the stem to wither and die.

Caring for Your New Cherry Seedlings

Growing a tree is a marathon, not a sprint. Once your seedlings are a few inches tall, their needs change. They require consistent care to build the strength necessary for life outdoors.

Watering is the most critical task. The soil should stay consistently moist but never waterlogged. If you notice cherry tree leaves turning yellow, it is often a sign that the roots are sitting in too much water or the soil lacks proper drainage.

As the plant grows, it will need nutrients. Start with a diluted liquid fertilizer once the seedling has at least two sets of true leaves. Look for a balanced NPK ratio (such as 10-10-10) but apply it at half-strength to avoid burning the tender roots.

Transitioning to the Great Outdoors

Your cherry tree cannot live in a pot forever. Once it reaches about 12 inches in height and the danger of frost has passed, you can begin the process of “hardening off.” This involves gradually exposing the plant to outdoor conditions over 7 to 10 days.

Start by placing the pot in a shaded, sheltered spot for an hour a day. Slowly increase the time and the amount of sunlight it receives. This prevents the leaves from being scorched by the sun or shocked by the wind.

Choose a permanent planting site with full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct light daily. Ensure the soil is deep and well-draining. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Place the tree in the hole, fill with soil, and apply a thick layer of organic mulch to retain moisture.

Unique Value: Germination Success Checklist

To keep your project on track, use this checklist to ensure you haven’t missed a critical step in the process of how to plant bing cherry pits.

  • Source: Are the pits from fresh, non-cooked, locally grown cherries?
  • Cleanliness: Is every trace of fruit pulp removed to prevent rot?
  • Moisture: Is your stratification medium damp like a sponge (not a puddle)?
  • Timing: Have the seeds spent at least 10 weeks in the refrigerator?
  • Light: Do the new seedlings have access to 12-14 hours of bright light?
  • Safety: Are the pots kept away from curious pets (cherry leaves contain cyanide)?

Common Challenges and Troubleshooting

Even the most experienced gardeners face hurdles. When you learn how to plant bing cherry pits, you might encounter a few common issues that can stall your progress.

Pests and Diseases

Young cherry trees are magnets for aphids. These tiny, sap-sucking insects cluster on the undersides of new leaves. You can usually blast them off with a sharp stream of water or use a mild insecticidal soap.

Watch out for powdery mildew, which looks like a white dusting on the leaves. This is often caused by poor air circulation or overhead watering. To prevent this, always water at the base of the plant and ensure there is plenty of space between pots.

The “Non-Sprouter” Problem

Not every pit will germinate. In fact, cherry seeds often have a success rate of only 30% to 50%. This is why you should always start with at least 10 to 15 pits if you want to ensure at least one or two healthy trees. If a pit hasn’t sprouted after 14 weeks in the fridge, it is likely a “dud.”

Protecting Against Wildlife

Once your tree is in the ground, it becomes a snack for deer, rabbits, and rodents. Use a tree guard or a wire mesh cage around the trunk for the first few years. This prevents animals from girdling the tree (eating the bark all the way around), which is fatal for young saplings.

Safety First: Tools and Handling

Gardening is generally safe, but working with trees requires some precautions. When cleaning pits, be careful if you use a knife to open the fruit; always cut away from your body. If you decide to use a method called scarification (nicking the seed coat), use a small file rather than a blade to avoid injury.

Additionally, be aware that cherry pits, leaves, and stems contain amygdalin, which breaks down into cyanide if ingested. Keep seeds and young plants out of reach of small children and dogs. Always wash your hands after handling the plant material or applying fertilizers.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How Long Does It Take for a Bing Cherry Pit to Fruit?

Expect to wait anywhere from 7 to 10 years for a tree grown from a pit to produce its first crop. Grafted trees from a nursery usually fruit in 3 to 4 years, but growing from seed is a test of patience!

Can I Plant the Pit Directly in the Ground in the Fall?

Yes, this is called “natural stratification.” However, the success rate is much lower because squirrels or mice often dig up and eat the pits during the winter. Using a refrigerator gives you much more control over the environment.

Do I Need Two Trees for Pollination?

Bing cherries are not self-fertile. This means they need another cherry variety nearby to produce fruit. Since your seed-grown tree will be a unique hybrid, it may or may not be able to pollinate itself. It is always safer to have at least two trees of different varieties.

What Is the Best Time of Year to Start This Process?

The best time to start is in mid-summer when Bing cherries are in season. By the time you clean them and finish the 3-month stratification, it will be late fall or early winter, allowing you to grow the seedling indoors until the following spring.

Conclusion

Learning how to plant bing cherry pits is one of the most rewarding “slow-burn” projects a gardener can undertake. While it requires a bit of scientific precision—specifically with cold stratification—the result is a beautiful, shade-providing tree that can live for decades.

Remember to be patient with your seedlings and provide them with the loamy soil and bright light they crave. Even if the fruit isn’t an exact replica of the store-bought Bing, you will have created a unique variety that is entirely your own. Grab some cherries, save those pits, and start your orchard today!

Taylor Galla Taylor Galla Founder of Garden Aider
  • Mechanical engineer
  • Gardening since 2010
  • Univ. of Nevada, Reno
From the author's notebook

Taylor pairs an engineer's eye with years of hands-on work in soil, lawns and outdoor machinery. He tests ideas in his own garden, keeps tractors and mowers running himself, and speaks to local horticulture groups. Every Garden Aider guide is written to be practical, accurate and safe to follow.

“To bring life alive, you just need to mix some love with the compost, bedding, and gardening machines.”

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