St Augustine Grass Types – Selecting The Perfect Cultivar
St. Augustine grass is a popular warm-season turfgrass known for its wide blades and exceptional shade tolerance. The best variety for your lawn depends on your local climate, sun exposure, and maintenance capabilities.
Top cultivars like Floratam excel in sunny, hot regions, while Palmetto and Seville are preferred for shaded areas. Newer varieties like CitraBlue offer a unique aesthetic and improved disease resistance for modern home landscapes.
Deciding on the right turf for your southern lawn is a significant investment that affects your home’s curb appeal and your weekend workload. You likely want a lush, deep-green carpet that can handle the heat without requiring constant intervention.
This guide will help you navigate the nuances of various cultivars to ensure you choose a grass that thrives in your specific environment. When you start researching st augustine grass types, it is easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer number of options available at the local sod farm.
We will break down the most popular varieties, explore their unique maintenance needs, and provide professional tips for long-term success. By the end of this article, you will have the confidence to select and care for the perfect turfgrass for your yard.
Understanding the Most Popular St Augustine Grass Types
St. Augustine grass (Stenotaphrum secundatum) is not a “one size fits all” species. Over decades, horticulturists have developed specific cultivars to solve common lawn problems like salt spray, extreme shade, or fungal vulnerability.
Each of these st augustine grass types has a specific niche in the southern landscape. Selecting the wrong one can lead to thinning patches, increased water bills, or a lawn that succumbs to the first sign of a chinch bug infestation.
As an expert, I always advise homeowners to look beyond the color of the sod. You must consider the biological strengths of the cultivar, such as its cold hardiness or its ability to recover from heavy foot traffic.
Floratam: The Sun-Loving Standard
Floratam is perhaps the most recognizable name in the world of St. Augustine. Released jointly by the University of Florida and Texas A&M in the 1970s, it was designed to resist the St. Augustine Decline (SAD) virus.
It features very wide, coarse blades and a distinct purplish tint to its stolons (the horizontal creeping stems). Floratam is exceptionally drought-tolerant once established and loves full sun exposure.
However, it has one major weakness: it performs poorly in the shade. If your yard has dense tree canopies, Floratam will likely thin out and fail within a few seasons, leaving room for opportunistic weeds.
Palmetto: The Shade-Tolerant All-Rounder
If your landscape features a mix of open sun and filtered light under oaks or maples, Palmetto is often the professional’s choice. It offers a finer texture and a deeper green hue than Floratam.
Palmetto is also known for its impressive cold hardiness. While St. Augustine is generally sensitive to frost, Palmetto can handle the occasional cold snap better than many of its tropical cousins.
This variety is also less prone to “thatch” buildup. Thatch is the layer of organic debris between the green blades and the soil surface that can harbor pests if it becomes too thick.
Raleigh: The Cold-Hardy Workhorse
Raleigh was developed in North Carolina specifically to push the northern boundaries of where St. Augustine can grow. It is the go-to choice for homeowners in the “transition zone” where winters are a bit sharper.
It maintains a solid green color throughout the growing season and shows good resistance to the SAD virus. It thrives best in heavy clay soils, which are common in the Southeast.
During the peak of summer, Raleigh may struggle with high heat if not watered properly. It is essential to monitor for gray leaf spot, a fungal disease that can strike Raleigh during humid, rainy periods.
CitraBlue: The Modern Aesthetic Choice
CitraBlue is a newer cultivar that has taken the landscaping world by storm due to its striking blue-green color. It was bred for a dense growth habit, which naturally helps crowd out invasive weeds.
Beyond its looks, CitraBlue requires less mowing than older varieties because it grows more horizontally than vertically. This is a huge benefit for the DIY gardener looking to save time on maintenance.
It also shows improved resistance to large patch disease. However, because it is a premium cultivar, the initial cost of sod or plugs may be higher than more traditional varieties.
Seville: The Shade Specialist
Seville is widely considered the king of shade tolerance among st augustine grass types. It has a finer leaf blade than Floratam and a very low growth habit.
It can survive in areas that receive as little as 6 hours of filtered sunlight. This makes it ideal for narrow side yards or areas tucked behind tall fences where sun exposure is limited.
The trade-off for this shade tolerance is a higher sensitivity to certain herbicides. When treating a Seville lawn, always read the label carefully to ensure the product is safe for this specific cultivar.
Essential Soil Health and Preparation
No matter which cultivar you choose, your lawn will only be as good as the soil beneath it. St. Augustine grass prefers a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.5 for optimal nutrient uptake.
Before laying sod, I highly recommend a professional soil test. This test will reveal your soil’s NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) levels and tell you if you need to add lime or sulfur to adjust the pH.
If your soil is heavily compacted, the stolons will struggle to root deeply. Use a core aerator to pull small plugs of soil from the ground, allowing oxygen, water, and nutrients to reach the root zone.
When preparing the site, remove all existing weeds and debris. Level the area with a garden rake to prevent low spots where water might pool, as standing water is a recipe for root rot.
Mowing and Watering for Long-Term Success
Proper mowing is the most overlooked aspect of St. Augustine care. Most homeowners cut their grass too short, which stresses the plant and encourages weed growth.
For most st augustine grass types, you should maintain a height of 3.5 to 4 inches. Keeping the grass tall provides shade for the soil, which reduces evaporation and protects the delicate root system from heat.
Always use a sharp mower blade. Dull blades tear the grass rather than cutting it, leaving jagged edges that are susceptible to disease and turn a brownish-tan color.
Watering should be deep and infrequent. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, ideally delivered in a single early-morning session. This encourages the roots to grow deep into the soil in search of moisture.
Avoid watering in the late evening. Leaving the grass blades wet overnight creates a humid microclimate that is the perfect breeding ground for fungal pathogens like Rhizoctonia solani (Large Patch).
Safety First: Handling Tools and Chemicals
Maintaining a beautiful lawn involves tools and products that require careful handling. Safety should always be your top priority when performing DIY lawn care tasks.
When working on your mower—whether sharpening blades or cleaning the deck—always disconnect the spark plug wire. This prevents the engine from accidentally starting if the blade is turned by hand.
If you are applying fertilizers or pesticides, wear long sleeves, pants, and eye protection. Granular fertilizers can be dusty, and liquid sprays can drift in the wind.
Store all lawn chemicals in their original containers in a cool, dry place out of reach of children and pets. Never “over-apply” nitrogen; too much can burn the grass and lead to nutrient runoff into local waterways.
Managing Common Pests and Diseases
St. Augustine grass is a favorite target for the Southern Chinch Bug. These tiny pests suck the sap from the grass blades and inject a toxin that causes the lawn to turn yellow and eventually die.
To check for chinch bugs, use a “flotation test.” Cut the bottom off a coffee can, press it into the soil at the edge of a yellowing patch, and fill it with water. If chinch bugs are present, they will float to the surface.
Sod webworms are another common threat. These caterpillars chew on the grass blades, leaving them looking ragged. You may notice small gray moths flying over the lawn at dusk; these are the adults laying eggs.
Fungal diseases like Gray Leaf Spot often appear during hot, humid summers. Look for small, oblong brown spots with purple borders on the grass blades. Reducing nitrogen application and improving airflow can help manage this.
Planting and Establishment: Sod vs. Plugs
Because St. Augustine grass does not produce viable seeds for commercial use, it must be established using sod, plugs, or sprigs. Sod is the most popular choice for an “instant lawn.”
When laying sod, ensure the edges of the pieces are tucked tightly against each other like a brick pattern. This prevents the edges from drying out and minimizes gaps where weeds can take hold.
Grass plugs are a more budget-friendly option for filling in bare spots or starting a lawn over time. Space the plugs 6 to 12 inches apart in a staggered grid. It will take several months for the stolons to “knit” together.
During the first two weeks after planting, the new grass needs light, frequent watering to keep the root zone moist. Once you cannot easily pull the sod up from the ground, you can transition to a standard watering schedule.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which St. Augustine Grass Is Best for High-Traffic Areas?
While no St. Augustine is as durable as Bermuda grass, CitraBlue and Palmetto tend to handle traffic better due to their dense growth habits. However, it is best to use stepping stones in areas with constant foot traffic.
Can I Mix Different St. Augustine Varieties in One Lawn?
It is generally not recommended to mix varieties. Different cultivars have different growth rates, colors, and textures, which will result in a patchy, uneven appearance that is difficult to manage.
How Often Should I Fertilize My St. Augustine Lawn?
Most St. Augustine lawns thrive with 3 to 4 applications per year. Use a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer in the spring, summer, and early fall. Avoid fertilizing in the winter when the grass is dormant.
Why Is My St. Augustine Grass Turning Yellow?
Yellowing can be caused by several factors, including iron deficiency (chlorosis), chinch bug damage, or overwatering. A soil test or a close inspection for pests is the best way to diagnose the issue.
Does St. Augustine Grass Need to Be Dethatched?
If the thatch layer exceeds 1/2 inch, it should be addressed. However, St. Augustine has thick stolons that can be damaged by aggressive power raking. Core aeration is usually a safer way to manage thatch in these lawns.
Conclusion
Choosing between different st augustine grass types doesn’t have to be a guessing game. By evaluating your yard’s sunlight levels, your local climate, and your desired maintenance level, you can find a cultivar that will flourish for years to implement.
Remember that even the best grass variety requires a foundation of healthy soil and proper cultural practices. Mow high, water deeply, and keep a watchful eye for pests to ensure your lawn remains the envy of the neighborhood.
Now that you know the strengths of Floratam, Palmetto, and the other major players, you are ready to take the next step. Head to your local nursery or sod farm and start building the lush, green sanctuary you’ve always wanted.
Taylor pairs an engineer's eye with years of hands-on work in soil, lawns and outdoor machinery. He tests ideas in his own garden, keeps tractors and mowers running himself, and speaks to local horticulture groups. Every Garden Aider guide is written to be practical, accurate and safe to follow.
“To bring life alive, you just need to mix some love with the compost, bedding, and gardening machines.”